Written by Sean Moeller Friday, 16 December 2005 04:24
The Shins’ James Mercer is not a cook. He writes
spiral notebooks full of delicate pop songs that feel like a thumb-race
through a World Book Encyclopedia, if encyclopedias dealt only with
human emotions and the methods for sussing them out.
Want to concoct a great pastry? Go ahead and ask a master baker to describe to you the precise reasons why his apple dumplings blow all of the other bakers’ apple dumplings out of the culinary water, and you’re likely to get an answer. Things like pastries are measurable and identifiable. The ideal amount of apple with the right dash of sweet can be defined to the chunk or the nearest milligram. Cooking options have already been trial-and-errored by generations of kitchen scientists to ensure the optimal amount of heat for goldening. It’s all very simple.